Costume jewelry, also known as fake jewelry or fashion jewelry, became extremely popular in the United States in the early 20th century. While real gemstones and precious metals have always been luxury items reserved for the wealthy, costume jewelry allowed average Americans to enjoy beautiful accessories at an affordable price. This article will explore the rise of the costume jewelry industry in the U.S. and its lasting impact on fashion and culture.
The Birth of the Costume Jewelry Industry
Prior to World War I, most women could only dream of owning fine jewelry made with gold, silver, and real gemstones. These luxury items were out of reach for all but the richest in society. However, several key events in the early 1900s paved the way for the emergence of a new jewelry category - costume jewelry.
In the 1910s, The Great War in Europe disrupted the supply of precious metals and gemstones as many mines were located in warring nations. This started increasing their prices beyond what most could afford. At the same time, women's fashion was evolving to favor bold, showy styles with lots of accessories. Designers like Coco Chanel started popularizing stacked beads, large pendant brooches, and statement rings made of colorful glass beads and synthetic stones.
Two brothers from Rhode Island, Joseph and Margretta Burman, saw an opportunity in this cultural shift. In 1920, they founded one of America's first costume jewelry companies - Burman Studios. Their whimsical, affordable pieces became instantly popular. Seeing the financial potential, other jewelry makers soon followed suit and the costume jewelry industry was born. Over the next few decades, it grew to become a multi-million dollar business.
The Golden Age of Costume Jewelry
The 1920s through 1950s marked the golden age of costume jewelry in America. As more women entered the workforce during World War II, the demand for U.S. Costume Jewelry that was attractive yet affordable skyrocketed. Leading designers like Hobe, Trifari, and Kenneth Jay Lane mass produced exquisite pieces made of materials like plastic, Lucite, rhinestones, and fake pearls. Their vividly colored creations at affordable price points allowed women of all income levels to curate show-stopping ensembles.
Movie stars and celebrities prominently featured costume jewelry in films and magazines of the era, further fueling its popularity among average consumers. Elaborate vintage inspired styles reflecting art deco, Victorian, and ethnic influences were especially trendy. At the same time, innovation in plastics and synthetic materials made it possible for costume jewelry to become increasingly realistic. By mid-century, it had replaced fine jewelry as the number one selling jewelry category in America.
Decline in the 1960s and Revival
However, the heydays of costume jewelry were short-lived. In the counterculture 1960s, as younger consumers rejected ostentatious styles, the demand started slowing down. Companies faced rising production costs and stiffer competition from imports. This led to the closure of many renowned costume jewelry houses by the 1970s.
But the legacy and aesthetic of vintage costume jewelry has endured. In recent decades, there has been a revival in popularity thanks to its nostalgic vintage charm as well as growing interest in eco-friendly fashion. Many modern designers have been exploring new ways to marry classic costume jewelry silhouettes with cutting-edge materials. Television shows and movies set in the mid-century era have also fueled renewed collecting of antique pieces from that era. While fine jewelry still remains a luxury, costume jewelry continues to have an important place in American fashion and culture.
costume jewelry was one of America's first true mass-market fashion industries. By making lavish adornments affordable for ordinary women, it played a key role in democratizing fashion. Over the last century, it has cemented itself as a celebratory part of American pop culture through its ties to glamorous eras, celebrities, and artistic design. Although trends may come and go, costume jewelry's ability to add a touch of whimsy, vibrancy and nostalgia to any ensemble ensures its history and legacy will continue to inspire affordable self-expression for generations to come.
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